Cold weather in the Snowdonia mountains has continued to yield excellent winter climbing conditions. Cwm Idwal in particular has been providing top quality ice action with most of the main lines (barring the Devil’s Appendix and South Gully) well formed and getting fatter by the day (although do be quick, Saturday is probably the last decent day for a while!).

Up in Cwm Cneifion on Clogwyn Du there has been more activity. Firstly Mark Walker managed the second free ascent of Blenderhead VII/VIII 8. He did take a fall when his axe popped though, but then went back up and did it clean. The next day Mark was back with Gaz Davies for a repeat of El Mancho VI/VII 7 and the first ascent of the pillar right of the crux of Left Hand Y Gully. The Rutt VI/VII 6 takes a very direct line avoiding all easy alternatives and continues up on the edge of the gully all the way.

Ian Parnell also dropped by making repeats of El Mancho and Blenderhead, commenting that the former was a three star route and that the latter was a bit easier than he expected given the fact that all recent attempts had involved leader falls. Conditions were lean though; perhaps the lack of heavy hoar frost and snow played a part? Check out Ian’s blog here.

Over in the Llanberis Pass a major new line fell to Pete Harrison and Megan Beaumont. Back in Black VII 7 gains and climbs the obvious ice smear at the left side of the Equator Walls (i.e. right of winter classic, Face Route). Three approach pitches (two of which are grade V) precede a final 40m VII 7 pitch on the ice smear, with some technical mixed difficulties thrown in for good measure.

Click here to see an image of Back in Black on the Welsh Winter Wiki.

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