Jon Ratcliffe has snatched the first ascent of one of the last great winter projects in North Wales. The Devil's Appendage VI 6 (VII 7), 4/5, 3 tackles the much eyed, but rarely formed ice feature on the left wall of the Devil’s Kitchen in Cwm Idwal.

Jon tried the line late on Saturday, but was thwarted by soft ice and ripping placements. An ice thread marked his high point, but it also advertised that the route was a goer. A nervous wait on Sunday preceded a return on Monday morning with Andy Scott and Si Panton to finish the job off. This time the temperature was lower and the ice was better quality.

Jon pulled a fine lead out of the bag, cranking through a series of powerful pulls on the overhanging crux section and reaching the sanctuary of the sloping ledge above.

He then continued up past an ice umbrella into the upper gully and belayed. Andy seconded the first pitch and then lowered off; then Si also seconded this pitch, before leading through on the excellent second pitch, which involves negotiating another large ice umbrella. After that, one final awkward rock step bypassing a large jammed block leads into a snow gully running up to the crag top.

“What an amazing route, I can’t believe it, a classic I reckon, and it’s in the kitchen!”

Enthused Jon after the ascent, before adding:

“As for the grade, I would say hard VI. It’s pretty steep and feels quite run out, but I haven’t done enough at this grade to say.”

The line had seen fleeting attention from various hotshots over the years, including Tim Emmett who had a brief attempt in 2005 after soloing the Devil’s Appendix. However, this is the first time in recent years that the ice has formed so well.

STOP PRESS News is just coming in that The Devil's Appendage has seen two repeats this morning, one from Stu Harth and Chris Thorne and a second from Tim Neill and Chris Forrest.

The next day Tim Neill had the following to say: "I'm still buzzing now, what an incredible route! I reckon it is definitely grade VII too!"

This sustained cold period (which shows no sign of abating) has already prompted some to suggest that this may be an even better season than last year. The crags are in fantastic condition and there is a really alpine feel to the Welsh mountains. There has also been some very significant ascents; Andy Turner’s free ascent of The Crack IX 9 on Clogwyn Du stands out, as does Adam Wainwright and Dave Hesleden’s excellent new route: Birdsong VI 6 on the Black Ladders (Ysgolion Duon). Such is the enthusiasm in the North Wales scene at the moment, the latter route has already seen two repeats. To see photographs and read the full stories check out the DMM website and of course, Baggy’s essential blog. See the links below:

Relevant links:
      DMM news item: Andy Turner frees The Crack IX 9
      DMM news item: Birdsong VI 6
      Baggy's blog

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