|
Pete Robins has climbed the project aręte right of the Rowan groove on the Kennels level in the Rainbow Walls area of Dinorwig Quarry. The New Slatesman F8b was originally inspected (and prospectively named) several years ago by Paul Barker, who placed a bolt at the top of the aręte. Last year Pete bolted the route up completely and started trying it.
“I tried it a bit last year when I wasn’t climbing that well, and at the time it felt really hard – in fact I wasn’t sure I could do it. This winter I’ve bouldered a lot, and that gave me the edge I needed.” Commented Pete after the ascent.
And so it was: fresh back from a very successful trip to Fontainebleau, where he climbed his first 8a problem (Tigre et Dragon at Rocher Greau), plus a rack of 7c and 7c+ problems, Pete made his move.
Last week he re-acquainted himself with the route and then yesterday in rough and windy weather, Pete nailed it first go, which was just as well as the rain swept in shortly after.
The grade of F8b is a rough assessment of the difficulties, which by Pete’s own admission are probably better served by a bouldering grade (V9/10/7c/+) or perhaps a trad grade of E8 7a. Would be repeaters (form an orderly queue) will be heartened by Pete’s assurance that: “…aside from one slightly weird hold low down, which you don’t really have to pull on, it has pretty friendly holds." That being said, the crux does involves two consecutive 7a moves, one of which may be the hardest move in the quarries!
Relevant links:
 news archive
home
|
