Today James Pearson made the second ascent of Leo Holding’s super-route, Trauma E9 7a on Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass. This hard and dangerous line, which launches up the blank wall above pitch 5 of The Cracks HS 5a, was first climbed by Leo back in 1999. Since then it has held out against all attempts, despite being a much-discussed prospect in the Llanberis scene.

The route was depicted in all its majestic glory by Ray Wood in his famous black and white shot - see the following link to view this iconic image: Trauma image on Climbing.com

James had a brief recce on the line a few years back, and got it on his second session this year. He climbed it in a headpoint style, hand placing a BD pecker hook over the top of the broken peg placement on the lower wall. The physical standard of the route is significant - James rated it as 8a+; an assessment confirmed by James McHaffie who has also been on the route. As for the overall grade, James reckoned E9 7a was fair.

“It’s an awesome route, and it just makes you wonder what other hard lines are tucked away on these crags. I’m made up to have done it; on Monday I’m off to Thailand for a two month trip, so the timing is perfect.” Commented James after the ascent.

The ascent was filmed by Dave Brown and the Hotaches team and will feature in a forthcoming film.

Relevant links:
      Hotaches blog
      
      

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