The run of exciting new routes continues unabated. On Friday Jack Geldard succeeded on the infamous Idwal Crack project on Craig y Cerddinen, the small steep buttress situated approximately 100m right of the foot of Sub-Cneifion Rib in Cwm Idwal. The line, which had seen attention from numerous talented rockstars (Dawes and Moffatt, for example) over the years, had assumed legendary status after Neil Dyer broke his back during an unsuccessful attempt in 1999.

The amusingly, if a little darkly, titled, Spinal Crack E8/9 6c follows Hamartia (Mark Katz’s E8) to the spike, which provides a crucial tensioned sling runner (about E5/6 to this point according to Jack). It then moves up and desperately leftwards into the main crack. Jack reckoned the crux was getting properly established in the crack, but even then, it’s not all over; a nerve-wracking moment or two is experienced here, whilst a cam is quickly slotted and clipped. This is the very point where Neil Dyer fell, just hitting the ground on rope stretch. With the cam in place, a mere E5 6b romp to the top remains.

Jack had made a very brief foray onto the route last year: more of a quick look than an attempt. This year he returned and gave it a proper go, impressively despatching it on his second proper session.

On the slate Pete Robins continues his enthusiastic campaign with another classic line in the Rainbow Walls Lower area. Rowan F7c takes the striking groove line on the prominent buttress on the level above the Unchain My Heart and Concorde Dawn wall.

“Pete had estimated the line to be about E3, suggesting that myself and Noel Craine pop up for a quick repeat after he’d done it. When we arrived it quickly became apparent that this was of a different order of difficulty altogether; Ben Bransby was aiding the top section!” commented Si Panton.

After a couple of failed attempts, Pete went for a final go. He tussled valiantly with the holdless upper section of the groove, and some how improvised his way to the belay in one piece.

On the repeat front, James McHaffie made quick work of Tambourine Man, Pete’s new F8a in the nearby California Quarry, praising it as one of the best sport routes in the quarries. He also repeated Rowan, experiencing a similar battle to Pete.

Caff also made the coveted second ascent of Steve Mayers’ 1992 route, Overlord on Dinas Cromlech. This was originally given E7 6c, but Caff thought E8 a more accurate grade, which might explain why it took 15 years to receive a repeat. (NB. Check the back cover of the 1994 edition of the CC Llanberis Pass guide for Ray Wood's classic shot of Steve doing the business.)

Relevant links:
      Pic of Spinal Crack on DMM website
      
      

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